Boysenberry (Western Blackberry/Raspberry Hybrid) Thornless, 12 cm pot Zones 5-10
Ready after end of June. Tissue cultured plants. Viruses/diseases indexed, Please, order separately or your entire order will be delayed with shipping until the end of June. And more: if the weather will be very hot here and all over the country we will have to postpone shipping untill it is cooler. So your shipment can be done as fall shipping. Please, think about very carefully and do not push to ship at the wrong time. We do not want to damage your plants.
BOYSENBERRY THORNLESS developed in California. Large, almost seedless, sweeter than thorny ones, juicy, full-bodied flavor. Very good for wine making. Self-polinated. Good for fresh eating, freezing, jams, preserves, pastries, juice, syrup, and wine. Too soft for shipping. Ripens during May and June. Grows to 5 ft tall, TRAILING. Requires winter protection below 0 degrees F, hardy in Zones 5-10. 12 cm pot.
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Just an update. Ive produced about 4 lbs of boysenberries thus far. Im totally addicted. What a great tasting boysen! The whole family loves the beauty and complex flavor of this boysen cultivar! They are stunningly gorgeous! My newly growing primacanes are going to be much much stronger in their second season. The new vines are twice as thick as the first year vinesdue to a more mature and stronger crown. Highly recommend!
Last June i received 3 Thornless Boysenberry Plants. I planted them in containers and along a fence trellised at 3ft and 5.5 ft. I allowed the crowns to grow 3 vines per container and trellised them up all summer and fall out here in California zone 10. I used soil moist to maintain moisture with my over 100 degree late summer temps. Be careful in fall when it cools and dont overwater. Especially with soil moist in the soil. I did well with this and now i have three beautifully trellised vines some 10ft long. I now have loads of beautiful white flowers on these self propagating plants.
I practiced primocane suppression and never allowed more than the 3 vines to grow up from the crowns and I nipped off any other shoots. I also nipped off any laterals near the bases. I wanted the vines to trellis out on the upper and lower wires first. Once i pinched off the ends, they began to cascade off laterals. i want the secondaries to cascade down off the trellised vines.
These plants and vines seem alot more dainty or easier to break than the thick Ol thonred variety of Boysenberries. At this point however, they have done very well and seem hearty and healthy. They are flowering out well in advance of my thorned variety Boysenberries. Seems like weeks ahead.
Three years ago, I bought both Thornless and Thorny Boysenberries from Berries Unlimited. The first year I planted them they grew well and produced 3 to 4 canes that were six foot or longer. I live in zone 6B, and so I covered the canes with straw in fall because sometimes our temperatures drop to below zero occasionally. 90% of the canes survived well and produced. I got enough sweet juicy berries to make 3 batches of jam. The plants did well and the fruit was excellent from both the thornless and thorny plants. I could not really tell much of a difference in taste between the thornless and the thorny plants. Now I would like to say something about the thornless boysenberry plants. They should be call Less-thorns and not Thornless because they do have some thorns. Not as bad as the Thorny but still enough that you will need to wear gloves when you prune them or trellis them. Also be aware that the Thornless Boysenberry plants can and will throw out thorny suckers from the roots and for a plant that is suppose to send out new canes from the crown, I have found suckers growing over 6 feet away from the parent plant. I would not usually be too upset but the sucker from the Thornless plants have more thorns then the Thorny Boysenberry&rsquo;s I bought. Very vigorous, productive plant that produces loads of nice tasting berries.